Pacific Crest Trail Pacific Crest Trail - 2019

Pacific Crest Trail (2019): Concluding Thoughts

The theme of this hike was definitely ‘Not What I Was Expecting’. I had thought that the terrain and weather conditions would be more like what I experienced on the AZT, since this PCT section is also desert terrain in a neighbouring state (don’t @ me, Americans!!!) but it was totally different (I know that your home states are all special in their own special ways!!!).


Scenery: I found the scenery beautiful, though it wasn’t everyone’s cup of tea. I love desert areas but met hikers who saw no appeal in them, so I can’t promise that you’ll love it. Ecosystems were varied though due to the many changes in elevation, so there must be something for everyone. Hiking this section in a high snow year was both positive and negative, since obviously the snow caused problems for me and others but the superbloom caused by the high precipitation was incredible and I consider myself lucky to have seen it.


The southern PCT does feel less wild than the northern PCT, passing through/by more towns and other human infrastructure (roads, dams, wind farms), and I never saw a starry sky because of light pollution (from LA?). Because of the big elevation gains and losses, walking this section was like a constant switch of seasons with the appearance and disappearance of snow and wildflowers, so breaking it into a multitude of smaller trips would be ideal for appreciating the scenery.


Terrain: It’s been killing me that on the first entry of this journal I mentioned ‘hard desert ground’. In keeping with the theme of PCT 2019, the ground was not hard at all. Trying to drive a stake into the ground on the AZT was like trying to penetrate cement with a toothpick, but the ground along this section of the PCT was soft and sandy most of the time. I could push in my tent stakes with my hands, and digging catholes was usually easier than it was during much of my hike from Burney to Canada last year.

The AZT was rough and rocky. The PCT was smooth and easy walking most of the time, with no particular problem spots like those I saw in the north. I felt a few twinges in my bad ankle, but I think that hikers without previous ankle injuries would be golden wearing trail runners for this section of the PCT.


Weather: I was expecting the weather to be like AZ’s, where I might have an occasional storm but the next day would be clear or at least cloudy-but-rainless. I hadn’t envisioned that I would be encountering sustained periods of rain and/or snow until I finished my hike at the end of May – the worst weather I encountered was actually in May. That being said, the weather this year was supposedly highly unusual and people were calling it ‘March in May’, so what I experienced is probably not representative of what you if a future hiker will experience. Last year I spoke to a hiker who didn’t get rained on until Washington.


I was expecting wind, but I’m inclined to say… more tentatively after just re-reading my AZT journal and seeing my mentions of ‘Churchill winds’… that the wind on this section of the PCT was… worse. Perhaps part of the problem was that most of the bad wind I received in AZ was on the Colorado Plateau, where there were generally trees for shelter, whereas the PCT was more exposed. On numerous occasions I had to brace myself on the PCT, and I think that the South Fork Trail would have been impassable in some of the winds I received elsewhere.

Campsites: Tricky, since my preference is to find my own campsites rather than using those in the app/maps, but the wind, thick vegetation and private property all reduced the number of viable campsites. In Oregon/Washington I could generally walk for however long I wanted and find a campsite soon after I stopped, but SoCal required more planning. Coon Creek Cabin = forever Disappointment Cabin.


Water: Prior to this trip I enquired as to how water sources along this section compare to water sources on the AZT, and got an ambivalent ‘they tend to be better’ answer. No, they were infinitely better! That’s not to say that I drank from every source, but I never had to drink from a cattle pond, and none of the sources tasted like cow. The trail didn’t even pass through many areas with cattle, or at least not many areas where I saw cattle/evidence of cattle.


Flip-flopping: Not my preference. Don’t get me wrong, it’s way better than falling on snow, and for those people who have only read about the trail online, the number of people who fall is much higher than you think (at least this year, what I saw online was nowhere near the number of falls I heard about while slowly meeting multitudes of people in my snailish way, so don’t assume that falling is rare and won’t happen to you). It’s just so squidgy to be on a long distance hike but not covering that distance in a satisfying orderly way. For those who are particularly interested in the social experience of the PCT or afraid to hike solo, the drawbacks of flipping are obvious since you’ll be leaving your bubble and the herd, though if you’re heading SOBO against the herd it can also be an interesting experience to meet many people for a short amount of time rather than the same people for long periods of time.

I should note that in the first 700 miles, there are bypasses for the areas that can be problematic because of snow. To my knowledge, the Mt. San Jacinto bypass is shown on the Halfmile maps and involves descending the Spitler Peak Trail (just before Apache Peak) and walking on roads to Idyllwild, then taking the Black Mountain Road alternate past Fuller Ridge. The Mt. Baden-Powell bypass is a combination of the Manzanita Trail and High Desert National Recreation Trail.


Favourite trail towns: Idyllwild was fantastic. The campground is cheap and only minutes from the Village Market, restaurants and laundry. The food at Los Gorditos was amazing, but it’s now listed on Google Maps as permanently closed. What a shame! The other restaurant I tried was The Red Kettle and it was excellent too. Supposedly a restaurant across from the post office has great pancakes.

Warner Springs has camping and facilities by donation. A restaurant, gas station and post office are close enough, and the community centre also sells various resupply items. A travelling gear shop was stationed there as well during my stay.

Big Bear Lake has a wide variety of accommodation and resupply options. It’s spread out, but there may be more central accommodation options than the one I chose. The bus drivers and people in general were super friendly.

I also enjoyed Kennedy Meadows. Free camping and hiker-friendly businesses. The general store was expensive for resupply but I heard that Yogi’s place has more reasonable prices, so that’s something to investigate.

Honourable mention to Mojave just for this:


Insects: Mosquitoes were never a problem. I found two ticks on me but got rid of them before either attached. The painted lady butterfly migration was incredible.


Gear: Like last year, I’m not going to dig deeply into gear because there’s already so much advice out there, but I will note a few things.

Chafe: I got chafe for the first time on this hike. Sunscreen wasn’t great for dealing with it but will do if you have nothing else. Body Glide works amazingly well, isn’t greasy, is available in a light 0.35 oz quantity, and only needed one application per day (at least for me). There’s also a ‘For Her’ version and I read the description so you don’t have to: supposedly it’s the original formula with the addition of ‘coconut and sweet almond oils’.

Items that I was considering bringing but didn’t bring:

Sunbrella – I would have liked one in Deep Creek, which was a brutal day, but overall it wouldn’t have been worth the weight for me.

Poncho – I brought a rainjacket, but not my poncho for that ultimate layer of rain protection. Ultimately I purchased one in Aqua Dulce because of sustained wet and cold weather.

Mosquito suit – Definitely unnecessary.

Tent: Those who recall my pre-hike posts will remember that I shoddily replaced the zipper pulls on my tent just before this hike, and… they worked great! One was fading again by the end of this trip, but I’m impressed by how long they lasted after the failure of changing the zipper heads on my Fly Creek. The tent itself needs replacement. I’ve been corresponding with Zpacks customer service, and apparently the issue I’ve had with holes/runs with my Altaplex is considered a defect in the materials and would have been covered by the warranty. Too bad I didn’t know that when it was still under warranty, but it’s good info for if I buy my next tent from them.


Navigation: The trail was well-marked. I don’t remember ever losing it.


South Fork Trail/High Desert National Recreation Trail detour option around the Endangered Species closure: See my entries on May 25 and May 26 for a detailed description and photos of trail conditions. The scenery was beautiful but I wouldn’t recommend this detour option.


Poodle dog bush: Poodle dog bush is no longer a substantial problem along the PCT, but it’s still there and something to watch out for. It has a strong smell like cannabis.

Food: Adding an occasional dehydrated backpacking meal to my diet helped exponentially in my struggle to not get sick of my food. Since they’re expensive, I recommend dividing them into two portions and mixing each portion with couscous, then you get the flavour of the meal for a cheaper price. On my next hike I’m going to go wild and see whether three portions is just as flavourful. Sometimes I thrill even myself with my penchant for adventure.

PLBs: I definitely have a different perspective on PLBs after Steve’s fall. I always thought ‘if you have reception, you can call 911’, but you can read my description of Tamara’s experience with that. One note – Alba told me later that Jordie’s family wasn’t informed for a significant amount of time that he wasn’t the person injured. If you’re carrying an InReach, maybe best to warn your emergency contacts that info can be delayed.

See you next time!

Pacific Crest Trail Pacific Crest Trail - 2019

Pacific Crest Trail (2019) 76: Back to the KOA

Wednesday, May 29, 2019 – 13 miles

Unsurprisingly, my shoulder was still hurting when I woke up this morning. I haven’t taken a zero for awhile, so hopefully it just needs some rest.


Temperatures were sweltering today and the trail was exposed as I walked towards the KOA. The North Fork Ranger Station had shady picnic tables, campsites and water available for hikers; another hiker told me that cold drinks and food were available inside for purchase, but I didn’t investigate the selection.


I enjoyed seeing land formations that I remembered from hiking into the KOA SOBO. Something that I’ve missed from Oregon with its big landmarks is looking back at a place and thinking ‘oh, I was there’. Due to flipping, I haven’t gotten the same well-structured image of the trail either, but it’s better than falling on the snow.


My plan was to camp at the KOA tonight and do laundry before hitchhiking out tomorrow morning to the nearby train station. I was hoping the KOA would have cheap tent stakes for sale or a little treasure trove of forgotten stakes, but there were none, so I went around furtively collecting rocks and sticks until being waylaid by a ninety-something fellow who was shouting at hikers ‘if you want to hike, join the army’. He said that he wanted to tell me a story (he went to Korea and climbed mountains). He also said that he was born in P.E.I.! Fancy meeting you here! After I got my tent set up, another hiker offered me his spare stake, but I was already set up so no need.

Back to Los Angeles tomorrow. I haven’t completed my objective for this year because of the miles I missed near Idyllwild, but because of my shoulder pain and loss of tent stakes, I’m going to return home and hike the missing miles when I finish the rest of the PCT. It would have been nice to hike more this year – as expected, the distance wasn’t enough – but the amount of snow isn’t conducive to the type of hiking I want to do. I’ve been following along with people going through the Sierra and further north, and whenever I read an account of someone crying 90% of the time from fear… nope. Imma go home, eat my ice cream and cross my fingers for hiker luck to prevent any deaths this year.

Pacific Crest Trail Pacific Crest Trail - 2019

Pacific Crest Trail (2019) 75: Well-Behaved Deer

Tuesday, May 28, 2019 – 17.60 miles

I slept a solid eight hours and when I woke up, the temperature was warm(ish, 5:00 AM warmish) and my left shoulder/upper back was killing me. I’ve been getting a nagging ache there for awhile, but was able to ignore it before, whereas now it’s hurting every time I take a breath. A few ibuprofen took the edge off, but man. This has been a tough week. I don’t think that’s bad near the end of a hike though, since it gets you thinking that you’re ready for a break rather than that you want to keep walking.

While watching the sunrise I saw two deer, my first of this hike. Apparently the deer that try to steal your stuff prefer the north.


The scenery was at a high level when I started out, with great views of the desert and numerous campsites.


Gradually the trees disappeared, replaced by shrubs and roads and power lines. The Mill Creek Summit picnic area was a nice place for a break with its picnic benches and outhouses.


According to eTrails, camping isn’t allowed between the Messenger Flats Campground and the KOA except at North Fork Ranger Station, so I was planning to camp at Messenger Flats. Just before arriving at the campground though, I saw a spot with a gorgeous view to the right side of the trail. I left my backpack there and went to scope out the campground, but it was in trees and the views looked worse, so I decided to camp at the initial site and set up there. Again there were plenty of sticks and rocks to use in lieu of tent stakes. Beautiful sunset! 

Pacific Crest Trail Pacific Crest Trail - 2019

Pacific Crest Trail (2019) 74: Love You Zpacks and My Tent

Monday, May 27, 2019 – 11.30 miles

I woke up at 4:30 AM. My tent was drooping beneath snow, so I braved the cold to brush it off before it could melt and wet my tent. Or that’s what I tried to do, but immediately discovered that oops – that’s not snow, that’s ice! Or to be more specific, a thin layer of snow embedded in ice.


I was camped low in the canyon, with no chance of a quick melt in the friendly morning sunshine. Finally I carried the tent up to a patch of sunlight beside the trail and picked off the ice with the help of the sun. Tent + ice = definitely not ultralight.


I finally got walking at 8:00 AM, soon passing Camp Glenwood. I don’t know whether PCT hikers are allowed to camp in the tent sites beside the cabin or whether they’re for private use, but they’re nice. Attached to the sign were postcards with an image of the cabin and a slot to put them in to be mailed for free. I didn’t want anyone to have to pay to mail something internationally for me, but I took a postcard. Am I getting old if I suddenly think that collecting postcards is a cute idea? By the way, shouldn’t I start raising cats?

On-trail post office

I entered the Station Fire burn area, a section of trail once notorious for poodle dog bush. Today most of it looked dead and none was growing across the trail.


I considered trying to whittle some tent stakes, but the local sticks had the strength of a Zpacks hiking pole extender (love you Zpacks). I would also have trouble trusting something made with my own two hands, except for food. I firmly believe that I’m less likely to poison myself than someone else is to poison me.

Blending yuccas

Fiddleneck Spring was just a splotch of wet earth, but Fountainhead Spring was running strong. There were many established tentsites nearby on Pacifico Mountain. The views were so beautiful, and the many rocks and sticks were so accommodating to someone without tent stakes, that I decided to camp.


The wind has picked up, but I’ve gathered enough rocks so that I feel confident my tent won’t be going anywhere. I’ve never had a day when I’ve spent more time disassembling my tent, assembling my tent and cursing at my tent (love you tent).

Pacific Crest Trail Pacific Crest Trail - 2019

Pacific Crest Trail (2019) 73: Better Stakes Than Poles

Sunday, May 26, 2019 – 12.90 miles

Waking up early with the wind, I began the 2500 ft climb up to cloud-coated Burkhart Saddle. The trail was mostly in great condition, but just below the saddle I encountered a stretch of loose and narrow footing. I met a group of weekend backpackers conveniently placed to complain to about how the canyon felt like a wind tunnel; I was continuously having to brace myself with my poles.

On the opposite side of the saddle the wind was even worse, with the landscape completely hidden in mist. I motored down past a campsite to a tributary of Rock Creek, where I stopped to add my pack cover and rain pants to the rain jacket that I was already wearing as a warmth layer. The trail degraded alarmingly after the tributary, crossing a series of eroding hillsides and passing huge yucca blooms.

Trail. Of sorts
Yucca bloom

When I reached Burkhart Junction, where the detour meets the normal PCT, I took a celebratory ‘I’m alive!’ selfie/evidence for the border people. My nerves were definitely eroded after the past few days, so I was glad to be back on the friendly PCT. Would I recommend this detour option? No, because I’m afraid of being blamed for someone falling and cracking open their head.


It rained in the afternoon. Again I met Medicine Man, whose rain jacket had a huge hole. I was tired and had to drag myself up to Cloudburst Summit, passing snow plants on the way.


Wikipedia says: ‘It [the snow plant] is a parasitic plant that derives sustenance and nutrients from mycorrhizal fungi that attach to roots of trees. Lacking chlorophyll, it is unable to photosynthesize. Ectomycorrhizal (EM) symbioses involve a mutualism between a plant root and a fungus; the plant provides fixed carbon to the fungus and in return, the fungus provides mineral nutrients, water and protection from pathogens to the plant. The snow plant takes advantage of this mutualism by tapping into the network and stealing sugars from the photosynthetic partner by way of the fungus.’ Interesting.

At Cloudburst Summit, the trail finally began descending into Cloudburst Canyon. Finding a nice campsite there, I decided to set up and save the miles for nicer weather. I pulled out my bag of stakes and discovered… one stake. I had left the others at my last campsite. I was crushed. I’ve never forgotten something at a campsite before, I always look around closely, but I must have missed seeing the stakes against the pale rock I placed them on. Knowing that more rain/snow was likely to fall in the evening or overnight, my first thought was that I would have to return to the highway and hitch out, but can not human ingenuity produce a more favourable result? I mean, obviously I have no ingenuity since I left behind my tent stakes, but maybe I can absorb some airborne ingenuity of others (on second thought, that sounds disgusting)? I asked myself, would the guy in The Martian have given up? Yes, he probably would have if confronted with a dire issue like missing tent stakes, but we’re not here to judge the guy from The Martian, so stop it. There were plenty of sticks and stones lying around and it turned out to be an easy albeit finicky matter to secure the sticks to my guylines and weigh down the sticks with rocks.

Since I set up, it’s been raining and sleeting. Glad to have my tent!

Pacific Crest Trail Pacific Crest Trail - 2019

Pacific Crest Trail (2019) 72: Looks Like a Nightmare

Saturday, May 25, 2019 – 15.90

I was sluggish in the morning and didn’t start walking until 7:30 AM. Little Jimmy Spring was closer than I had thought – the data points in eTrails are funny here – and flowing strong below the trail.

Little Jimmy Spring

15-20 tents were still pitched in the campground when I arrived. My sluggish peers! The campground was nice enough, but both of the locks were broken on the outhouse I went into. I can’t perform under these conditions…


On my way to Islip Saddle, a group of hikers told me that someone fell off the ridge yesterday and was getting evacuated today. I saw the helicopter as I started down the South Fork Trail. Is witnessing two helicopter rescues during one hike above average? IT SHOULD BE.

The South Fork Trail starts behind the picnic benches at Islip Saddle. The PCT passes above and two hikers shouted down to me ‘the PCT is up here!’. Ah, the SFT detour is so unpopular that people don’t even know where it begins… The first section of the trail was in good condition, a pleasant stroll through the forest. After ten or fifteen minutes, I met two day hikers who gave me a detailed description of trail conditions ahead, also mentioning that they were walking the trail in both directions. I concluded that okay, this trail can be hiked and won’t inflict trauma. Necessarily.

Here’s a photo of one of the first sketchy bits I encountered, and a good representation of the average degree of sketchiness on the SFT:


There were three deadfall obstacles. Here’s the first. I climbed above, but looking at the obstacle from the other side, it may have been easier to go below.


Soft and narrow trail after the first obstacle:


Deadfall obstacle 2/3 was easy to slip beneath:


Between the second and third obstacles, I encountered the first place where the trail was essentially gone.


Getting scared? Here are some random flower photos:


Here’s the third obstacle. I tried to climb over. Don’t try to climb over! I was swarmed by tiny biting ants. I ended up climbing the slope above the trail.


After the third obstacle I hit another place where the trail had basically eroded away:


The walk through the upper canyon was pleasant, but the lower canyon was gorgeous, with high rugged cliffs.


More scary trail. The second picture sort of looks like a nightmare, but it’s actually the trail.


The couple that I had met earlier passed me near the bottom of the canyon, still in good spirits. My nerves were frayed and I was glad to step onto the friendly canyon floor. Unfortunately there was graffiti on the rocks around the creek, the ne’er-do-wells of this region apparently having gotten bored with vandalizing Deep Creek.

Today is Saturday, and South Fork Campground was crammed with car campers. Its location is nice, but there was broken glass and such around. I saw people standing in the creek with an inflatable boat. The creek… it’s not big enough…


Like I mentioned in my last entry, the PCTA describes the trail from Islip Saddle to South Fork Campground as the part of the detour in worst condition, so I was hoping that things would improve once I forded the creek and started along the High Desert National Recreation Trail. I did so, finding a deer tick on my ankle during my next break. Gross! Continuing along, I found three men with beer cans sliding on their butts down an eroding slope between two switchbacks. That’s possibly the worst behaviour I’ve ever witnessed on a trail, but I didn’t want to confront them myself. If I’d had some young PCT bucks with me I would have complained, then made my escape while the young PCT bucks were getting beat up.

Overall, the trail between South Fork Campground and the Devil’s Punchbowl was in much better condition than the SFT. Holcomb Canyon Creek had lovely established campsites, a good alternative to South Fork Campground (don’t camp between the Devil’s Punchbowl and Devil’s Punchbowl County Park, the trail is filled with tourists). I would have liked to camp at the creek, but the weather is supposed to be bad tomorrow – yes, again – so I wanted to see as much as possible today.


The Devil’s Punchbowl was highly impressive. I would recommend visiting the Devil’s Chair, because it’s there. To continue along the detour, take the unmarked trail at the junction.

The Devil’s Punchbowl from the Devil’s Chair

Finally PCT signage, at the Devil’s Punchbowl County Park junction.


Past the junction, I met two older day hikers. The man exclaimed ‘Oh, a PCT hiker actually hiking the PCT!’ and at first I thought that he was referring to this being the ‘official’ detour, but it turned out that he thought the normal PCT route uses the Manzanita and High Desert National Recreation Trails from Vincent Gap to Burkhart Junction and doesn’t go over Mt. Baden-Powell at all. You would think that he would believe someone currently hiking the PCT about where it goes, but when I corrected him, he refused to believe that he was incorrect. Okay, whatever.


I camped less than a mile before Cruthers Creek. I’m so happy to have had a day of gorgeous weather!

Pacific Crest Trail Pacific Crest Trail - 2019

Pacific Crest Trail (2019) 71: Like Someone Who Anticipates Being Eaten by Rats

Friday, May 24, 2019 – 9.20 miles

Happy Mt. Baden-Powell Day! Unfortunately rain was forecast for the afternoon, since there’s no perfect weather window in the Year of March in May, but I hoped to be up and over the summit by then. Quickly reaching the Vincent Gap trailhead, I began the ascent. For ~2.2 miles the trail was clear, then small patches of snow popped up, then by ~2.4 miles most of the trail was snow-covered and I put on my microspikes. Snow that was initially icy transitioned directly into slush at 9:30 AM. The footsteps were shallow throughout and I could see where people without spikes had been slipping.


Due to my flip SOBO, I had heard many descriptions of Baden-Powell and how the trail was straight up through the snow without switchbacks. I was pleased to find that enough of the snow had melted for most of the regular switchbacks to be followed, with makeshift switchbacks for the ~400 feet directly below the summit.

The Wally Waldron tree

What I saw from the summit was gorgeous, but unfortunately low-hanging clouds had begun marring a beautiful pristine sky during the ascent, and they blocked my summit views first partially and then completely. That’s pretty much what I had expected with the feelings of someone who expects to one day be eaten by rats, but I was still disappointed.


I began the descent along the ridge. Again because of my SOBO flip, I had gotten the advice to forego the PCT here for a snow-free user trail that runs along the top of the ridge, but the recent snow had covered much of the trail at higher elevations. I took that route anyway since the snow was shallow and non-problematic. A few footprints showed where other hikers had gone the same way.


Generally, sticking to the path on top of the ridge was a good policy. To climb over the various peaks in the clouds and have no views from them was frustrating, but on those occasions when I did try to follow the PCT on the north side of the ridge, I would often reach a big snow drift with no tracks and have to climb back up the ridge anyway.

Bit of an obstacle.

The snow was slushy with shallow and ill-formed footprints from people slipping. I felt comfortable with my microspikes but wouldn’t have done this hike without.


Starting on the ridge, rain made the conditions pretty miserable for awhile, particularly when I got off-trail and ended up in a sea of wet vegetation.

Not long before Little Jimmy Campground, where I had been planning to camp, the mist thinned and I saw a gorgeous campsite where I decided to stop instead. The rain ended while I was pitching my tent, and the sky cleared – very painstakingly due to a lack of wind – over the course of about four hours. I kept the doors of my tent rolled up to admire the beautiful sunset. Half of me wishes that I had camped up on the ridge since the weather should be better tomorrow, but it is what it is. At least I got to Mt. Baden-Powell finally!

Pacific Crest Trail Pacific Crest Trail - 2019

Pacific Crest Trail (2019) 70: Hold No Hope in Your Heart

Thursday, May 23, 2019 – 4 miles

The hotel wouldn’t hold my backpack after I checked out in the morning, so I carried it around as I completed my remaining chores: mailing the remnants of my bounce box to the Acton KOA, leaving extra food in the hiker box and picking up a forgotten item at the grocery store. The clerk at the checkout pointed out a rack of free items available for hikers, most of which were travel-sized toiletries. It’s like a subtle ‘don’t disgust the other tourists, k?’.

Outside I met Medicine Man, who had previously lived in Wrightwood and was able to provide some info on the South Fork Trail/High Desert National Recreation Trail alternate for the PCT Endangered Species Closure north of Eagles Roost. The closure has been in place for many years with no end in sight (the original PCT signage has been removed, so hold no hope in your heart). The SFT/HDNRT alternate is the ‘official’ detour, but much longer than the alternate that most people take, which is walking on Highway 2 from Eagles Roost to Buckhorn Campground and then on to Burkhart Junction. And when I say ‘most’, every hiker who I asked this year had either done or was planning to do the highway walk. I wouldn’t highway walk to save miles, but the PCTA also calls the SFT/HDNRT alternate ‘exposed and treacherous’ and I definitely would highway walk for safety purposes. More specifically, the PCTA says ‘This scenic detour is not up to normal PCT standards, especially the first 5.3 miles from Islip Saddle to the South Fork Campground. Parts of the first 5.3 miles have moderate exposure and a trail that sometimes crosses steep eroding hillsides with difficult footing.’ Medicine Man hiked the South Fork Trail six years ago and said that it was in bad shape even then, so while still planning to take the SFT/HDNRT alternate, I’ll be mentally prepared for turning around.

Standing across from the gas station, I quickly got a ride back to the trailhead. Unfortunately, the partially sunny weather in Wrightwood did not reflect the wet cloudiness up at Inspiration Point, which was less than inspiring with its views hidden. The PCT was sopping wet and lined with soft snow.


Walking farther than planned because camping was unappealing in the wet, I made camp a short distance before Vincent Gap and the beginning of the slog up Mt. Baden-Powell. The location is a mixed bag for sure. There’s no wind, but the trees are gathering moisture from low-hanging clouds and releasing an endless rain.

Pacific Crest Trail Pacific Crest Trail - 2019

Pacific Crest Trail (2019) 69: When Even the Ramen Is Posh

Wednesday, May 22, 2019 – 9.20 miles

I got an early start today to complete the nine miles to Inspiration Point/Wrightwood before the snow began this afternoon. Despite my hatred for low-hanging clouds, I was charmed to see a cloudbow:


Great views continued in the cold.


I started hitting patchy snow around Blue Ridge, none of it problematic. The Acorn Trail down to Wrightwood looked icy still.


I had been planning to collect water at Guffy Spring, but with the cold weather I didn’t need to. Near the junction, I encountered trees with the most amazing… I don’t know. Is this advection frost? ‘Frost Facts for Kids – Kiddie Encyclopedia’ says that advection frost involves ‘tiny ice spikes’, but I could have impaled someone with these. I’ll concede my ignorance, but it’s the coolest thing I’ve seen so far this year. Also, these trees have a hard life.


I reached Inspiration Point before the snow began.


As I was walking around, looking for informational signage (there is none – apparently you’re just supposed to look and feel inspired), a car pulled up. The driver and passenger were friendly Wrightwood locals and offered me a ride to town. My main fear for this road was that I would get picked up in the snow by tourists who had never driven in snow before, but danger averted.

I arrived at the hotel too early to check in, but the employee stored my backpack and I went to the grocery store. An unfamiliar hiker checking out at another register came over and asked whether I had ID; I was puzzled until he revealed that he was trying to buy beer and the clerk had asked him to show ID. The clerk at my register asked how old he was and he said ‘almost forty’ and she told the other clerk to let him buy it. I had a laugh at that one. Ah, pointless bureaucracy… I also had a laugh at the fact that California can make even ramen posh and expensive.


After I left the store, hail and snow began to fall. I went to the library and read until I could check in at the hotel. The weather tomorrow is supposed to be bleh but nicer weather is forecast for the next few days, so hopefully I’ll be able to actually see my surroundings on Mt. Baden-Powell.

Pacific Crest Trail Pacific Crest Trail - 2019

Pacific Crest Trail (2019) 68: It’s Late May, Okay?

Tuesday, May 21, 2019 – 15.80 miles

Even around 3000 ft, low-hanging clouds were making themselves a nuisance this morning.


The temperature was cold until the sun began peeking out, then warmed to hot during the steady ~4800 ft grind uphill. I took a dirt road alternate for better views of Mt. Baldy and companions and to avoid what eTrails calls a poodle dog bush infestation.


In the afternoon, I was able to check the weather forecast. A winter storm warning is out for Wrightwood tomorrow, with the majority of the snow due to compile in the afternoon and a daytime high of five degrees Celsius (may I remind the weather that today is May 21st?). Grudgingly I decided to get a hotel room in Wrightwood even though they’re all expensive. Hopefully I’ll still be able to get a ride down from Inspiration Point in bad weather. This business of Mt. Baden-Powell and repeatedly bad weather has felt like trying to find a weather window for climbing Everest – in the future I’ll tell people that I’ve climbed Everest and then if they ask for details I’ll clarify ‘no, I meant metaphorically, but with all the smugness of a non-metaphor’.


I found a pretty campsite below the trail with views of the mountains and low-hanging clouds from above, the only context in which low-hanging clouds are acceptable. The air is freezing and I quickly retreated to my sleeping bag.

Pacific Crest Trail Pacific Crest Trail - 2019

Pacific Crest Trail (2019) 67: Give My KM People Back

Monday, May 20, 2019 – 1.70 miles

I found an earwig in my tent when I woke up this morning. DIE. Frost was there too, and I waited for the friendly sun before walking to the store, which serves breakfast from 8-10 AM: all-you-can-eat pancakes with eggs, hashbrowns, sausage/bacon and orange juice (or possibly the more ambiguous ‘orange drink’). I only managed the initial number of pancakes but several of the guys managed to stuff more in. Important information: you can choose different fillings with subsequent helpings. Eventually I became aware that one of the women at the table was not a hiker, but rather a trail angel who had car camped at the store last night after driving another hiker up to Kennedy Meadows. Due to the total absence of traffic on the road I was ready to pay for a trail angel ride and asked whether I could get a ride down to the highway. She offered to drive me all the way to Cajon Junction, so I was set!

I had the notion to eat lunch at the Subway at Cajon Junction and bushwhack to the trail from there, since I had walked the beginning of the section when trying to hitch north. I had lunch and began bushwhacking, but quickly encountered poodle dog bush and decided to use the trail instead like a rational human being. Seeing all the unfamiliar hikers at the McDonalds made me feel depressed about switching bubbles yet again. I liked the group at KM! Give my KM people back! Suddenly being in a hot area again also feels strange, but I know that I’ll be complaining about the cold in a few days, so I should probably just stop mentioning the temperature even though it goes against all my instincts as a Toontowner not to whine about ‘too hot’ or ‘too cold’ (there is no perfect temperature since then we wouldn’t be able to whine). 

The prickly pears are blooming now with large beautiful rosy blossoms that the bees burrow into. I saw a bee upside down inside one. Bee heaven.

Prickly pear blossoms

I also saw a blooming poodle dog bush and lots of non-blooming poodle dog bush. It doesn’t seem to smell as strongly here.

Blooming poodle dog bush

The trail was surprisingly scenic even near the intersection, with interesting rock formations.


Passing the Sullivan’s Curve vista just before a train approached, I ran back to take a photo (true dedication to being derivative).


I made camp at a site only 1.7 miles along the trail. It’s pretty, not windy and there’s no poodle dog bush. I’ll have a long climb tomorrow, but its grade looks reasonable in the elevation profile.

Pacific Crest Trail Pacific Crest Trail - 2019

Pacific Crest Trail (2019) 66: Sittin’ on My Tractor

Sunday, May 19, 2019 – 8.20 miles

My tent was dry and the sky was blue when I woke up at 6:00 AM. That’s… not what I was promised… I had been planning to wait out the bad weather in my tent, but when no precipitation materialized except for a sprinkle of rain during breakfast, I decided to pack up and start walking.

Rockhouse Basin was beautiful. The mountains to the north were dusted with snow from overnight precipitation.


A cloud bank behind the mountains was releasing mist down a valley (hereafter Precipitation Valley) to disappear into the basin.


The trail passed the south fork of the Kern River.


I was tired from yesterday and rested near the river for awhile before continuing on to Kennedy Meadows. I’m not sure what I had imagined would be here – a store on a grassy field with other, less relevant buildings in the vicinity – but also lots of tourists. There was no grass and the streets were deserted. A sign listed the population as 200. Immediately I started to suspect that I was going to be stranded here. Boston Chris had mentioned that hitching out of Kennedy Meadows was ‘more difficult’ than hitching out of Walker Pass, but the hitch looked actually impossible. Zero traffic. Nightmare.

At any rate, I arrived at the Kennedy Meadows store, where I received the standard applause (unwarranted since I have yet to hike 100+/702 miles) and met several hikers who I had seen but only said hi to over the last few days. I also encountered Kata and Fly, who were camping at Grumpy Bear’s rather than the store. I quizzed people about which was better to camp at. It sounded like the amenities were fairly similar, though no one mentioned that the shower at Grumpy Bear’s was indoors – I would have gone there if I had known, but it seemed easier to just stay at the store, which has a forested camping area out back. The store itself has fewer goods than I had expected, and it’s expensive, but luckily I was only resupplying for a few days from Cajon Pass to Wrightwood. Later I heard that Yogi’s place has more selection and better prices.

In the afternoon, snow began falling and we all clustered into the store. I ordered a hamburger, which was decent. 


After playing country music all day, the store switched to rap while I was charging my phone on the deck in the evening. But then I heard the lyrics ‘sittin’ on my tractor’. I’m so confused. All I know is that I didn’t need this music in my life. 

Pacific Crest Trail Pacific Crest Trail - 2019

Pacific Crest Trail (2019) 64: Windchill x 100

Friday, May 17, 2019 – 15.40 miles

The wind was brutal this morning and I had to keep bracing myself with my poles. Clouds in the west were spilling over the mountains into a blue eastern sky.


With the windchill the air was like ice, forcing me to put on my gloves. It turns out that gloves are less annoying to wear with hiking poles when both of your hiking pole straps are broken.


Despite the annoying walking conditions, I did glean some joy from the weather because of the gorgeous advection frost.


The trail descended below the clouds to the junction with Joshua Tree Spring. I had planned not to collect water there because the spring contains uranium, though a comment in the water report states: ‘Spoke to Mr. Larson of BLM Bakersfield. According to him most water sources in the Sierras contain uranium in different levels, but most springs are not tested. This one is tested and the uranium level is above the drinking water limit (designed for a lifelong intake in a typical household). Everybody has to judge for himself, but Mr. Larson would personally drink it if treated for the normal bugs while on the PCT. – Jeorg 9/8/13’. eTrails offers a feistier note: ‘The BLM states that the water exceeds the federal standards for uranium, explaining why veteran PCT hikers glow in the dark’.


I kept walking and the weather gradually improved, the wind dying away and the clouds thinning into sunlight. The temperature remained cold though.


The Spanish Needle Creek tributaries contained plenty of water. I had been planning to camp at Lamont-Spanish Needle Saddle because its location was convenient, but after pitching my tent I spotted a suspicious patch of potential cathole three metres away. Perfectly willing to take down my tent and re-pitch elsewhere, I went to scope out the other campsites, but they were littered with food scraps and embedded pieces of toilet paper. Whyyyyy. I decided to stick with my original spot.

As I was heading back towards my tent, I encountered Bake and gave him a cheerful hello, it’s nice to see you. The man’s enthusiasm was less than mine and after closer examination I realized that OH, I’VE NEVER MET THIS PERSON BEFORE. Though notoriously bad with faces and distinguishing men with beards, I firmly maintain that he and Bake looked almost identical and are fourth cousins. His hiking partner arrived and they decided to keep hiking. I might have kept hiking too if not for being tired and unsure about camping spots ahead.

I mentioned to a hiker the other day about being sent for secondary questioning at the airport, and some documentary evidence with which I might prove my innocuous intentions in the future (printed permits, journals, bank statements from previous hikes). He suggested pictures. I blame the fact that I never take selfies for photos not even occurring to me. I took one today as a preemptive action, but it’s just a useless tree photo… I need to remember to take photos of myself with signs.

Pacific Crest Trail Pacific Crest Trail - 2019

Pacific Crest Trail (2019) 63: Five Rides

Thursday, May 16, 2019

Ah backtracking. You’re the worst ❤ . At least I could make a day trip of this backtracking, unlike my two-day escapade returning to Ashland during PCT 2018. I packed up my food and other scented items, then set off through the low-hanging clouds and light rain towards Walker Pass. Three miles later I dropped beneath the clouds and received a lovely look at the countryside through cleansed air.


At the trailhead, I was surprised to encounter Kata! Because this was meeting #3. She told me that she had enjoyed looking after Hikertown but got cabin fever after awhile. As usual it was good to re-see someone and confirm that their hike is going well, though the next stop after Walker Pass is Kennedy Meadows, so everyone is worried by this point about the heavy snowpack in the Sierra Nevada.

After we parted the rain started up again, heavier this time, but I was quickly picked up by a construction worker in a chain of vehicles. He had to take a short detour to a work site, but I was in no rush. When dropped at the RV park, I collected my bag from the owner’s porch and rang the doorbell to thank her, but she wasn’t in. I sent her an email instead and walked to town for lunch, because if I had to return to town, I had might as well eat town food.

After leaving the restaurant I met two hikers who said that they had been trying to hitchhike back to the trail for an hour. So, the prophecy of hard hitchhiking fulfills itself. They were standing right in the middle of town, so I decided to walk closer to the outskirts and try there. I soon got a ride, but there was a catch, namely that the ride was only to the first in a series of small towns between Lake Isabella and Walker Pass. The driver had never heard of the PCT before, and when I told him how far I was walking, he interpreted ‘hiking’ as ‘hitchhiking’ and started telling me about his own hitchhiking adventures in his youth. He asked how much further Walker Pass was, but it was too far for me to try to cajole a ride out of him. The town where he dropped me off had a shop and a bowling alley. I want to bowl! I mean I haven’t bowled in fifteen years and was still throwing the ball between my legs on that last occasion, but there’s never a bad time to attempt again an activity that you were terrible at. I also imagine the bowling alley as a social mecca for this town, which is fun. I wasn’t going to bowl alone however, and soon caught another short ride by a couple running an errand who promised to return and pick me up if I was still there in an hour or so. But I caught a third ride! This driver drove me to Onyx, out of her way.

I’ll get back to the trail someday… maybe today, maybe tomorrow, maybe next year

So there I was, in Onyx, fairly sure that no towns remained between Onyx and Walker Pass (please), when a highway patrol car pulled over. Inwardly I winced, assuming that I was going to be lectured – I was once lectured by a police officer for hitchhiking on a highway in Canada and I think he thought that I was a prostitute, because he kept asking me questions about my job – but to my surprise, the highway patrol officer offered me a ride. He was a nice guy who told me about his work history and how he had sought a job where his efforts reward more people than just the person paying his salary, which he meow has. At Walker Pass, he immediately picked up two more hikers to drive them back to Lake Isabella.

Climbing again

The climb back to Morris-Jenkins Saddle was nicer with fewer items in my pack, but so windy that I started worrying about falling trees and how my tent had fared. To arrive at my campsite and find no tent there would be ‘rather unpleasant’. The spot I had chosen was somehow still protected from the wind though, and other than one loosened stake the tent looked as I had left it.


The clouds have cleared and the view is nice, but the cold has driven me into my tent for the evening.

Pacific Crest Trail Pacific Crest Trail - 2019

Pacific Crest Trail (2019) 62: Return of the Comb

Wednesday, May 15, 2019 – 4.70 miles

After a leisurely morning, I visited the post office to pick up my microspikes (blasted things) and walked to the bus stop to wait for the 12:30 PM bus to Walker Pass/Ridgecrest. Boston Chris joined me there and we met several friendly fellow passengers who eTrails would describe as ‘colourful characters’, one of whom gifted Boston Chris some weed. When the bus arrived at the Walker Pass trailhead, a large group of hikers was waiting to board for Ridgecrest and several others were attempting to hitchhike to Lake Isabella. I chatted for awhile with the hitchhikers and a hiker named Fly who had just arrived from Onyx. Once Fly and I started down the trail, he was quickly out of sight, probably never to be seen again by yours truly. Flying indeed.

I hiked between a series of saddles beneath increasingly cloudy skies. Forgetting to keep an eye out for rattlesnakes, I got rattled at. The snake removed itself from the trail, but then began slithering in my direction alongside the path. Since it didn’t seem agitated, I stood and watched it pass – it’s interesting to see how snakes propel themselves along. 

Looks like it recently had a meal.

After setting up camp about five miles from the trailhead, I realized that I had forgotten my grocery/wet tent bag, spork and phone charger at the RV park. Arghhhh! While I do consider myself an expert at eating with a comb after last year’s hike, there are some kinds of expertise that just aren’t meant to exist in this world. I emailed the RV park and the owner kindly retrieved and stashed the bag away for me. I’ll slackpack down to the pass tomorrow and hitch into town.

When I texted my parents to inform them that I was backtracking, my mother said that I ‘really need to take along a plastic fork and spoon as backups’. My first reaction: No. My second reaction: On trail I’ve used the comb more as a utensil than for my hair, so maybe I should replace it with a plastic fork and use that to comb my hair if necessary? I’m totally accepting donations to further develop this idea as a business opportunity. No refunds.

Pacific Crest Trail Pacific Crest Trail - 2019

Pacific Crest Trail (2019) 61: Lake Isabella

Tuesday, May 14, 2019 – 0.70 miles

Walker Pass Campground

I walked the remaining distance to Walker Pass this morning and quickly caught a ride to Lake Isabella with a fisherman. Of course I headed straight to a restaurant for breakfast, marveling at the lightness of my pack with zero food in it, and then walked to the Vons to resupply.

I’m staying at the Haven RV park ($15). It’s on the outskirts of town, but it’s a nice place with a hiker box, laundry, showers and an indoors sitting area with a charging station. I’ll stay here for one night and head out tomorrow. I’ve read that hitching out of town is difficult, but a bus runs from Lake Isabella to Walker Pass on Mondays, Wednesdays and Fridays.


I was alone at the RV park until Boston Chris arrived in the evening. Because of the heavy snow in the Sierra Nevada, he’s planning to leave the PCT at Walker Pass and hike the Oregon Coast Trail. The OCT seems like a popular choice for postponing the snow, but he’s done it before and only semi-recommended it due to road walking.

When I mentioned the dogs in Neenach, he said they’ve been chasing hikers for years!

Pacific Crest Trail Pacific Crest Trail - 2019

Pacific Crest Trail (2019) 60: Return of the Fake Rocks

Monday, May 13, 2019 – 16.70 miles

My gorgeous view was hazy this morning, perhaps because of blowing dust. After a long stretch of forest, the PCT merged with a dirt road through hot exposed country. I was hungry and began feeling unwell. I kept thinking that the road was actually flat and the bumps were my imagination – it was reminiscent of that time on the AZT when I became convinced that the rocks were fake. Locating a patch of shade, I ate my second-last energy bar and drank some water.


Another hiker came down the road. It was Kinda Bird, who I first met near Deep Creek. Back then she had shin splints and we were walking at a similar pace, but now she was fully recovered and quicker (I walk at the same speed as a limping person…). Nonetheless I walked with her to the next water source, a stream running across the road in the vicinity of McIvers Spring. I didn’t need water, and I didn’t have enough food to eat more so soon, but I took another break with Kinda Bird and several other hikers there. Kinda Bird offered me snacks but I was sure that I could manage the remaining distance to Highway 178 and Lake Isabella using my own provisions.


The afternoon was rough though. I’ve read Hunger (the novel by Knut Hamsen, not whatever eight billion YA vampire novels may exist with that title) so I shouldn’t be complaining, but man. I’ve never eaten 100% of my food during a leg before. There’s always been bits left over, a few bars or nuts or something that didn’t appeal, but by evening I had finished everything except today’s supper and one bar for breakfast tomorrow. I used all of my dehydrated milk for the calories. I even ate all of my beef jerky, even though I kept remembering The Jungle in horror. I EVEN ATE THE WHITE FATTY PIECE. I saw an adorable baby rabbit and didn’t think about how I might capture and slaughter it, so that’s good.


Around 5:00 PM I arrived at the junction for Walker Pass Campground, where I had the choice to continue another 0.7 miles to the highway or stay the night at the campground. It was late to hitch into town and pay for a night at the RV park, so I decided to stay at the campground, eat my remaining food and catch a ride in for breakfast tomorrow. 

Pacific Crest Trail Pacific Crest Trail - 2019

Pacific Crest Trail (2019) 59: The Creepy Classmate

Sunday, May 12, 2019 – 12 miles

The weather and scenery were wonderful again today. Near Bird Spring Pass, I met a woman who asked whether I was a section hiker because she hadn’t seen many thru-hikers stopping to take pictures. I also stop to talk to skittering lizards, whispering furtively so that no one will overhear. I once encountered a hiker screeching loudly and he explained that he was talking to a crow, so I’m going to classify my behaviour as ‘normal’. Anyway, this thru-hiker seemed to believe and expect me to believe that thru-hiking/hikers are superior to section hiking/hikers. Get out of here with that, girl! They’re different activities that value different elements of the trail. And readers know by now that I dislike hikers thinking that they deserve admiration just because they’re walking a long distance, right? GO WALK IN THE AMAZON AND DISCOVER A NEW ANTIBIOTIC IF YOU WANT MY RESPECT.


After Bird Spring Pass, the trail made a long climb to Skinner Ridge. I had trepidation about starting the climb in the heat of the early afternoon, but it was less steep than the other climbs lately, and clouds muted the sunlight.


The views from the high point were incredible. I wanted to camp, but I had only covered twelve miles. But… it was so pretty… and I saw a flat clear spot in the trees with surrounding rocks and a short walk to the best view… I CAMPED! Ugh. Short on food but addicted to scenery. But this is definitely one of my favourite places where I’ve camped on the PCT. I even found a pool of delicious stagnant rainwater in the rocks. A thundercloud is edging past and I’ve had two hummingbird encounters: one was hovering a half metre away just now, watching me with its beady black eyes, and the other brushed the back of my neck. 


I’ve known people to distinguish hikers into two categories, ‘walkers’ and ‘campers’. I’m a camper for sure. I love sitting and silently observing. Like that classmate who freaked you out in high school. I’m proud to be the creepy classmate to these skittering lizards.

Pacific Crest Trail Pacific Crest Trail - 2019

Pacific Crest Trail (2019) 58: A Photogenic Day

Saturday, May 11, 2019 – 15.20 miles

The sky was beautifully blue when I woke up this morning. I continued through the pines to Landers Camp, which is 0.2 miles off-trail but has a tank with water presumably of better quality than the creeks surrounded by cow droppings. eTrails describes the Piute Road source as ‘trickles through cow pies and has an oily sheen’. How has Nestle not purchased it yet? Landers Camp was busy with hikers and more arrived while I was there. I was surprised, having seen only three people yesterday and none the day before. Most must have passed me after I made camp yesterday.


Because of my unplanned flip, I’m short on food this leg. How short? Short to the extent that I’ve counted my peanut M&Ms to ration them. My mother once told me that she has to eat small portions and go hungry much of the time to maintain her weight (A DEPRESSING GLIMPSE INTO THE FUTURE) so maybe I’m getting insight into the slowing metabolism of the wise. Whatever the case, I was hungry and worried, but miserable weather leads to a better appreciation of good weather, and the sunlight made me cheerful as the trail dropped back into Joshua trees and shrubbery.


As I neared the large water cache at Kelso Road, grey clouds began moving in. The distant rain and gloom contrasted nicely with the bright patch of blue sky in the other direction and lent a dramatic quality of light to the landscape.


A spatter of rain fell with a few thunderclaps as accompaniment, but perversely the rain lasted for only the exact length of time it took for me to put on all of my rain clothes. The thunderstorm slipped past and I sweated under my plastic in the sunlight, finally removing the rain clothes during a long climb with more fantastic views of Joshua trees and valleys.


One of the hikers I met today had decided to cowboy camp on a ledge. It had a stellar view, but was almost enough of a death trap to quality for @youdidnotsleepthere.


By the end of the day, clouds were rolling in again. Finding a place to camp was a miserable affair with all the cow droppings and no information in eTrails about potential campsites in the area. AZT resurrected! I wandered down a gully, then above the trail for awhile, then down another gully and finally found a flattish spot without cow pies. It’s not a death trap, but rather a poked-savagely-by-thorns-that-dissuaded-the-cows trap.

Pacific Crest Trail Pacific Crest Trail - 2019

Pacific Crest Trail (2019) 57: Soggy PCT

Friday, May 10, 2019 – 12 miles

I woke during the night to flashes of light. I’ve not weathered a thunderstorm in a tent before. My poor tent – I’ve patched more of the holes, but it’s not what one would call waterproof anymore. I had trouble falling asleep again, and the lightning seemed to go on and on. Water was pooled in one corner of the floor when I woke up in the morning. Light rain was still falling. I wanted to wait for a break in the rain to pack up my things, but none came, so eventually I packed up in the wet. My nose was running, hopefully from allergies rather than a cold, but I wouldn’t be surprised if it’s a cold. It’s hard to fist bump someone, then immediately take a bottle of hand sanitizer from your pocket and rub it all over your hands while continuing the conversation. Even while shiftily avoiding eye contact.


As expected, the scenery was engulfed by low-hanging clouds, but at least the wind was mild and not driving droplets into my glasses. I wore my massive new poncho until the rain stopped, then kept it on as a warmth layer.


The trail had steep sections today and was mentally a bore until the vegetation began favouring pines. Cottonwood Creek had plenty of water with a strange buildup of foam, while Landers Creek looked more palatable.

Cottonwood Creek flooding the trail

Camping in the Landers Creek area was appealing with a carpet of pine needles so I set up there, stopping early but with no real expectation of being able to dry anything. The scenery is like water with bits of earth blurred in.